A couple of weeks ago, for The Squawk newsletter about the docuseries In Vogue: The 90s, released back in September which I mainlined in a day, I love it so much. The footage from back then, of the models, of the celebrities, of the FASHION, is amazing. So much nostalgia, so much gossip history, so much gossip education.
Every episode is entertaining but it’s the last two episodes, “Hip-Hop Takes Fashion” and “The American Moment” that really drives home the force that Black artists have had on fashion. As I wrote in my piece:
“…as much as any other movement in that decade, hip-hop’s impact on the industry then and now is monumental. These episodes trace the rise of athleisure all the way back to Mary J. Blige’s “tomboy” style; they give due to Missy Elliott’s “The Rain” video as the godmother of the puffer dresses we’ve seen on the runway at Moncler; and they pay homage to Lil Kim’s nipple pastie from the VMAs in 1999 that opened up the next 20 years in naked fashion.
From Dapper Dan to FUBU, Black artists and Black stylists revolutionised the fashion industry. Before Dapper Dan, none of these brands were leaning into the in-your-face logo appeal. There’s a direct connection between what Dapper Dan was doing in the 90s to Pharrell’s work at Louis Vuitton. And all of us who prefer our clothes oversized owe a lot to FUBU for making it cool.”
Cut to today, it’s just been announced – the co-chairs of next year’s Met Gala: Colman Domingo, Lewis Hamilton, A$AP Rocky, Pharrell Williams, and honourary co-chair LeBron James. Because the theme of the Met Gala in 2025 will be: the Black Dandy! And if you’ve ever watched footage from the tunnel before an NBA game, you know the basketball players have been serving modern dandy for the last 20 years.
The theme of the Met Gala always supports the Costume Institute’s exhibition. Per Vogue:
“Today, the Metropolitan Museum of Art announced the Costume Institute’s spring 2025 exhibition, “Superfine: Tailoring Black Style.” Drawing inspiration from Monica L. Miller’s 2009 book, Slaves to Fashion: Black Dandyism and the Styling of Black Diasporic Identity, the exhibit will feature garments, paintings, photographs, and more—all exploring the indelible style of Black men in the context of dandyism, from the 18th-century through present day.”
After the underwhelming garden theme that we saw six months ago, the Met Gala will return with an instant winner. Think of the tailoring and the structure we’re about to see; imagine how much fun designers will have with the interpretation – from pants to jackets, hats and ties and collars; and the prints! On people of all genders. But also a conversation about fashion, led by Black men, who have unquestionably shaped the way we all dress today. Even Anna Wintour herself, LOL.
Every single of these co-chairs is a fashion peacock. Each of them will be showing out! And one of them will arrive with Rihanna who, no doubt, has already started thinking about how she’s going to serve dandy. And, by the way, it doesn’t have to be a suit. A ball gown, but make it dandy? Thom Browne has you covered.
